Opinion and observation on a world gone crazy

Joe Gill, journalist and game inventor from Brighton, UK

Sunday, 10 March 2013

Hugo Chavez - a dazzling light goes out

It is a sad day, no doubt about it. Millions around the world are mourning the death of Venezuelan President Hugo Chavez. I first saw him on television around 1996 when I was living in Caracas. He was a charismatic young army officer who had recently been released from prison after his failed coup attempt of 1992. He became a national figure in early 1992, when he told his men to return to barracks and that the struggle against a corrupt government was called off 'Por ahora' (for now).
Twenty one years later, after winning power and leading a 'Bolivarian revolution', he is gone. He was an educator and an enabler of his people, the majority poor of Venezuela, to whom he gave a unique voice in the presidency. While in the rich north, the working class have been largely excluded from political debate since the rise of Thatcherism and neoliberalism, in Venezuela the president unashamedly spoke for the toilers and the poor. For the privileged and highly educated, it is hard to imagine what this kind of articulation means.
I remember seeing Chavez work his way meticulously through the national accounts and the international reports of ratings agencies, explaining to the audience of Alo Presidente what all this elite language meant. He did not dismiss it, he explained it. I could never imagine such a scene on British television where politicians speak in soundbites and patronising cliches.
I remember going on holiday to the beach in 2006 where a Dutchman and his Venezuelan wife ran a small hotel. While the owner complained about Chavez, his Venezuelan cook explained in detail why his boss was wrong. This man may have slept in a modest room adjacent to the kitchen, but he understood Chavez's transport strategy and was able to articulate his view clearly and confidently. The Dutchman's half-baked complaints did not stand a chance. This for me was an object example of what the Bolivarian revolution meant. A people armed with ideas and facts, able to defend their own advancement and their own government. They could criticise it too, but not based on the lies and distortions of a capitalist media, which they were able to see through.
Viva Chavez!

The thrill of the alien


I prayed last night for the return of my passport in order to be reunited with my family. At about 6 this morning, woken by the cacophony which is the night in the Seeb souk, and the idiot opposite who has the TV on really loud then starts playing Arabic disco at 3am. I went into the corridor and shouted to little effect.
Waking again at 5pm with the call to prayer amid strange and vivid dreams, I went online and saw cryptic messages from T sent while I was asleep boiling down to ‘You owe me big time’ and ‘Get you bag, you’re pulled’ which I had to assume meant she had found the passport. Another email from my mum this morning confirmed this although I will have to wait for a video call to confirm this. I walked along the beach today after spending an hour and a half in the office doing a bit of work to lessen the load tomorrow. P and K came in just as I left at midday.

The thrill of the alien. That is one way to describe the feeling of disorientation mixed with excitement, or rather a heightened sense of awareness, when one is in a strange country with very little that is familiar. There are ugly things about Oman – the shop signs, the scrabble roads, the litter on the beach, the industrial noise and endless traffic. In a sense it is both developed– in the sense of infrastructure and traffic – and underdeveloped in the commercial western sense. Where as we have endless sophisticated advertising and branding, they have brash, ugly shop signage that is all of the same ilk. They have endless ‘coffee shops’ that don’t sell coffee. If was to put on my entrepreneurial hat I would say two lines for tourism would be – a decent, Omani coffee chain to take on the limited inroads of Costa and Starbucks. Secondly, boutique western friendly hotels at reasonable prices. Oman is pitching at the high end market which makes perfect sense but means that many will not come here. For Oman, that of course could be a great blessing. But rather than leave the mid price hotels to Indian chains, an Omani-European chain could cater to those who don not like gloomy rooms and indifferent service. But then of course, you would need trained staff as well as well designed hotels.

My new room has what seems to be a permanent generator hum just outside the window. I am guessing it will continue into the night. Strange that when I came to look at the room earlier I did not hear it. We will see tonight whether it makes sleeping impossible. Shouting and the water truck, and perhaps less disco pounding would be nice, but I am suddenly aware of this incessant jangle. This part of town is the epitome of the hell of rapid modernization without thought for the peace of the people who are supposed to be benefiting from it.